India

Benaulim beach

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We hung out at Blue Corner, a restaurant on the beach with sun loungers out at the front.  You could stay there all day, resting on the sun loungers, going for a walk or a swim, and eating in the restaurant when you get hungry.  The seafood in Benaulim is very good.  The sun loungers […]

India

Benaulim, Goa (2)

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A walk in Goa We stay in a guesthouse tucked away in the forest, just outside Benaulim. We take this path through the forest, passing giant banyan trees. We walk towards the centre of Benaulim village. We take a side road through the fields, and pass these holiday homes with beautiful gardens.  The abundance of […]

India

Benaulim, Goa (1)

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We fly from Delhi to Goa with IndiGo.  Arriving in Goa’s airport, some way south of Panjim (Goa’s main city), we take a pre-paid taxi further south to Benaulim, a small and serene fishing village. On the journey south we pass forests of palm trees, fertile fields and unending blue skies. Our driver does not […]

India

Old Delhi

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Old Delhi We take an auto-rickshaw into Old Delhi, to the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in all of India.  It is surrounded by a vast and sprawling bazaar, which fills up the labyrinthine streets made of compacted earth.  The bazaar is such a throbbing hive of activity that nobody notices us; they are too […]

India

New Delhi

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New Delhi We disembark from the rickshaw near Connaught Place, and wander off along the wide, clean streets lined with grand white buildings.  The cycle rickshaw ride was fun but none of us are sorry to get off.  Coming into New Delhi is like emerging into an entirely different place.  There is very little traffic […]

India

Paharganj, Delhi

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We travel from Agra to Delhi by National Highway – on broad, open, empty expanses of toll road, where our bus can drive fast all the way.  On the approach to Delhi we drive through two entirely new cities, being built from the ground up.  These are vast developments emerging on the open plain.  There […]

India

Agra

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The day after visiting the Taj Mahal we go to Agra Fort, a vast red castle strategically located on a meander of the Yamuna river.  It is built of red sandstone and dates from the 16th century.  Within its broad, high walls are several self-contained palaces, and mosques.  You can see the Taj Mahal across […]

India

Homesickness

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I have been in Mumbai for more than three months now, and when I left my brother at the international airport I started feeling homesick.  His presence here had thrown me back into a world where it is normal to have all my family and friends around me, and deeper than that – the comforting […]

India

Bandra Skywalk

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Bandra has a skywalk, which runs for about 1.8km (1.1miles).  It connects Bandra East and West with the station, a series of interconnecting footbridges (or one long one), providing a safe, elevated platform for pedestrians to walk along. The Bandra skywalk was finished in June 2008 and was the first one in Mumbai.  There are […]

India

Haji Ali Dargah

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A photo tour of Haji Ali island tomb and causeway. On the approach to the Dargah. Inside the Haji Ali complex. This is the view upon leaving the tomb.  Note the stacks of sandals all around! An empty fountain beside the tomb chamber

India

Mahalakshmi

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Just beyond Mahalakshmi station and over the rail bridge lie the dhobi ghats.  These are concrete vats where dhobiwalas wash laundry every day; loads of washing are brought here from all over the city to be soaked and beaten at the dhobi ghats.  Mumbai’s dhobi ghat is said to be the largest outdoor laundry in […]

India

Holi – the festival of colours

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Holi, 27th March 2013 Today is Holi, the Hindu festival of colours. There is a drum and brass band playing outside my building, and the pigeons are busy dropping nesting material in through my window.  I clear the twigs, bits of plastic and twizzled curls of paper off the inner windowsill and out of my […]

India

Elephanta Island, and the spirit of E. M. Forster

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I visited Elephanta, an island that lies in Mumbai’s harbour, about seven miles north-east of the jetty in front of the Gateway of India.  I went down to the Gateway and bought a ticket for the ferry to the island (Rs 150 at time of writing), and then queued up on the jetty with groups […]

India

St Andrew’s Church, Bandra

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St Andrew's Church

This pretty Catholic church is situated at the end of Hill Road in Bandra, and is lit by bright, upward-projecting lights.